Moelwyns

Clogwyn Y Oen

A great crag, that went out of fashion after it was dropped from the Tremadog guide a few years back. With new selective guides a few more climber have been visiting the crags, however it is still reasonably quiet, and the rock is great quality that retains its grip even in the rain, due to the lack of lichen on the quartz type rock.

The Climbing

The climbing is mainly slabby, although there are some steeper routes. The holds tend to be positive and the gear reasonable, although some of it can be tricky to arrange. Cams are definitely helpful as there are some pockets that need them for protection.

The best route there is Kirkus' Direct Severe, however Chic Severe, Slick Severe, Bent Severe and Slack VS are all worth climbing. There are also other routes here, and its open aspect and lack of seepage means it dries quickly after rain.

Approach Map

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